You’ve likely seen these reels making the rounds on Instagram and TikTok, spotlighting a country that you’d never really heard of, let alone for an exotic holiday destination. 70 odd year old Dave, a Brit travelling the country via bus with whom we shared a drink with on Lake Ohrid, mused that his only connection to the country he was now discovering was through the film Taken, which gives the (wrong) impression that it’s a haven for organised crime and kidnappers.
We spent a few weeks road tripping this underrated country whilst on our Balkans leg doing our ‘Schengen shuffle’ and creeping closer to Turkey. One week of this we were in holiday mode, renting a house out with mates, so we had a taste of the ‘holiday’ vibes, as well as the van life vibes.
The main thing to note is that the Maldives part that everyone bangs on about is a village called Ksamil which is very far south at the end of the Albanian Riviera opposite Greece – it’s easier to fly and then ferry over. Another note is that we didn’t actually go there BUT having explored the start of the Riviera I think I get the jist: No doubt beautiful (when you look outwards to sea), much cheaper than Greece (and Maldives for that matter) and an easy summer beach holiday set up. The big caveat and main gripe with the coastline is that (in season) it’s crowded with rows and rows of paid for sun beds with little ‘public’ beach. The previously undiscovered has definitely been discovered and like everything is being capitalised upon, especially during high season which is likely when you’d want a beach hols because it’s… summer.
Maybe it’s not that much of a big deal… if you’re coming out for a week or so it might be exactly what you’re after. We were just a little surprised when we hit the coast to see just how developed (and growing) it was. Bear in mind that travelling by van means we’re seeking out more of the ‘wild’, and development means more worry and less choice on where to stay the night! Backpacking and camping on beaches and in teeny back to basics campsites in the more remote places is big here, I think that would be a special way of exploring.
Alas, the country is large, the scenery is stunning – the colour of the sea is SO beautiful, mountains, canyons, thermal springs, historical towns, food is a med-balkan mix, raki is on tap, and it’s all wrapped up in a bit of rustic rough n readiness with a slight tinge of good weirdness about it. They were a communist country until 1992 and also had one very paranoid leader (hence the 700,000 bunkers) which must play into it.
Onto the recs
(We mainly stuck to the coast – there are many highlights inland!)
The Accursed Mountains (Albanian Alps)
Hike to the Blue Eye from Theth, or if you have the time do the Theth - Valbone hike
Karaburun Peninsula
On the holiday part we were boujee and hired a boat from Vlore (the start of the riviera) for a day of exploring the beaches on this maritime park only accessible by boat & secret caves which really did feel like the Maldives! *5 star rec - SAW DOLPHINS!
The Llogora pass
Zig zaggin panoramic road through a national park down to the start (or end) of the Riviera
Dalan Beach
More Scotland-esque off the beaten path scenes - popular park up spot for vans. Beautiful monastery here.
Gjipe Beach
A good hike down to this one but well worth it for a day trip – a less untouched one nestled in a cove where you can also camp on the beach or stay in the car park. Cold beers and cool turquoise dips await at the bottom
Livadhi Beach
More of a popular one but large and convenient, we stayed at a campsite opposite the beach. The corners of the bay feel more quaint and cabana-style, there’s a cute restaurant built on the rocks . Good base to hike to the more secluded Aquarium beach as well.
Lake Ohrid
Sleepy lakeside villages dot one of the oldest lakes in the world – a complete contrast to the North Macedonian side which is one of the country’s most popular holiday hot spots. Try fresh trout here.
Travel Trivia:
The language is considered an isolate within the Indo-European language family – it has no links making it one of the hardest to learn
It’s the home of Mother Teresa
There’s no Mcdo in Albania!
The rubbish infrastructure and attitude towards waste is bad, be prepared
No means yes and yes means no (shaking and nodding is opposite!)
Fuel is one of the most expensive in the region… big shock for us arriving on an empty tank
Would I recommend?
Yes – I think every country is worth visiting! Visit sooner rather than later whilst it’s not as popular as other destinations. If you’re coming for a sense of ‘wild’ coastline then from our experience that is getting hard unless you’re in a 4x4… I think Greece would be better for that. It deserves a visit as a country in its own right VS a Maldives comparison.
Any questions or thoughts? Please do comment below, hit ‘reply’ to send me an email or gizzus a ‘heart’ so I know these are useful/engaging/inspiring/maybe a waste of time!!?!
We loved the Albanian coast - but definitely think it has a different vibe to when we visited in off-season. Far less beach parasols and beach bars, and more peace, quiet and nature! It was a little bit cold though, and it meant we couldn't get the Theth! It looks beautiful there!